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Drilling Mast

A forum for discussing boat or trailer repairs or modifications that you have made or are considering.

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Drilling Mast

Postby nchogberg » Sun Dec 10, 2006 6:55 pm

Hi Guys,

I picked up a mast block, reg. block and cleat. The idea is to run the main halyard back to the cockpit. Anyhooo, the regular block I double stacked on the keel block no problem.

Now I have a mast block that has four screw holes at each corner and I picked up some 3/4 self tapping SS screws from WM. Will this be adequate or do I need to drop the mast and get machined screws and put nuts on the inside?

Also is it ok to mount the mast block on the mast or should I deck mount it? I didn'nt want to deck mount it to keep from making holes in the cabin ceiling for access.

thanx...
Hawg.

P.s. The outside shroud of the halyard came apart last weekend. I started this whole project 'cause I had to replace it. It went with no problems. I duct taped the new halyard to the inner rope of the old halyard and it went up top and through the pulley just pretty as you please.
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Postby Catigale » Sun Dec 10, 2006 7:51 pm

Hawg I was going through the same debate but then just attached my mast turning blocks to the vang bail at the bottom - no holes at all.

Only problem on my 'halyards aft' project was I did a masterful job of mounting my double 3/8 inch rope clutch in the cockpit, only to find I had 1/4 inch halyards....

DOH!!!!
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Postby Scott » Sun Dec 10, 2006 8:53 pm

I wish i had a better pic but this turning block is held by 1 screw and nut through a hole about 3 " up from the bottom of the mast.

Image
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Postby nchogberg » Sun Dec 10, 2006 10:00 pm

So all of your replies are lovely, the question is still would you drill the mast or drill the deck. AND will SS self tapping screws be enough if I decide to drill the mast?

Also Scott, I would like to see a pic of you because every time I see your avatar I feel like I am talking to David Spade, ha ha.
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Postby Bobby T.-26X #4767 » Mon Dec 11, 2006 12:23 am

i drilled on each side of the base of the mast (about 3" above the bottom) and installed small pivoting Harken blocks.
i was able to do the install by removing the mast flange while in the trailered position and fastening the blocks with nuts on the inside.
i like the way it looks and functions.

then, to get my sheets to the cockpit (the 90 degree deck turn), i ordered and installed two additional Mac OEM deck blocks and stacked them in their existing locations.

for more info and pictures, PM me off-line.

Bob T.
"DaBob"
'02X w/ '04 90-TLDI (14" x 11 pitch)
Dinghy Motor: '06 2.5-Suzuki (H20-Pump Recalled)
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Postby Scott » Mon Dec 11, 2006 4:15 pm

I looked like this in college,

Image

I looked like this during my meteoric proffessional career.

Image

My wife wishes I looked like this:

Image

But alas, I really am David Spade.
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Postby Frank C » Mon Dec 11, 2006 5:50 pm

nchogberg wrote:So all of your replies are lovely, the question is still would you drill the mast or drill the deck. AND will SS self tapping screws be enough if I decide to drill the mast?


Catigale wrote:Hawg I was going through the same debate but then just attached my mast turning blocks to the vang bail at the bottom - no holes at all.

My solution was same as Stephen's (Catigale), no holes at all. Just attach a basic Harken bullet block to the mast step so its shackle is down (the block "hangs upwards). On the 26X you can attach it to the mast pivot bolt, the vang bail or the centerboard line-guide. NO HOLES.

Or you might drill the mast step as anchor point for your shackle. Then the halyard block can remain at the mast step when you drop the mast for trailering. :wink:
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Postby Night Sailor » Wed Dec 13, 2006 12:06 am

To answer your question: Yes, sheet metal screws or self tapping metal screws work just fine as long as you use the largest that the piece of equipment will accept. Most of the hardware on my X is mounted with #10 screws, some heavy duty stuff is #12. It's been good for 9 years in winds up to 40 knots. Beware however, of cheap hardware. Get the good, expensive stuff from a marine or food machinery supplier. HD or Lowe's carries some cheap stuff that is not very strong.

And as others have said, avoid drilling the mast or boom if you can as the holes are hard to fill and still be inconspicuous should you decide to move something.
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College

Postby pokerrick1 » Sun Dec 17, 2006 12:05 am

Scott;

I thought your college picture was one of John Belushi :P :D

Rick :) :macm:
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Postby Highlander » Mon Dec 25, 2006 8:48 am

3/16 ss rivets thats what I use when I have attached blocks to my mast & boom for my main reefing , out haul , lazy jacks & when I raised my boom goose neck brkt on the mast up three inchs thats what was holding it originally & thats what I'll be using to attach my newly purchased Garhauer rigid vang when I get it in about 4 wks :wink: 8)
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Postby delevi » Mon Dec 25, 2006 11:43 pm

Either tapping screws or 3/16 stainless steel rivets will work just fine. I'm not sure if you'll get the correct angle to your cheeck block, however. I used a pivoting block, shackled to one of the holes in the mast step, used for the mast raising kit. The one drawblack is having to remove it, along with my reefing block on the other side when stepping the mast. 30 seconds, however, and no holes needed and allows for a great angle for the halyard to run to its next block.

Leon
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Postby Highlander » Tue Dec 26, 2006 8:56 am

I would never trust self tapping ss screws have had them work loose & or break I have 2 swivel blocks that attach to the mast raising mounting at the front of my mast hinged base as I never remove my mast raiser the bolt is long enough that I just put one on each end & leave them there

John
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Postby Highlander » Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:19 am

If you look at my "Mac cutter Rig " mod pic's which is just below this subject you'll see on the port side just beside the baby stays my stacked cheek blocks & another pic's shows my swivel blocks attached to my mast raiser base

John
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